Lecco Finale

Back to Lecco again for the final discipline of the world cup: difficulty. Heavy storms the day before had delayed the women's qualifications, so they had to be early birds and start at 8 in the morning. I was sleeping at this time, but managed to make it for the final at 5 in the afternoon. There was a large crowd gathered, many I suppose were there for annual baptism of the lake with its spectacular fireworks display. The piazza was surrounded by trade stalls, and the Red Bull girls were busy under their tent mixing sugary drinks.

The final kicked off with the women. A few surprises in the line up, perhaps 8a is easier to achieve for some than 8am. Needless to say the route took a horribly overhanging line. Most of the 8 competitors made it to half height, where some of the more devious were able to gain an almost hands off 'rest' under the roof before making a blind move around the overhang. From the ground it looked just plain awkward, to exit there was a dynamic move leading onto the headwall. The best performances came from Martina Cufar and Muriel Sarkany reaching almost identical points. It was Muriel who took victory, proving once again you do not have to be born in a country with lots of rock to be a world class climber. There still is hope for me!

The men's event was also missing some names that I could recognise. There was no Francois Petit, Legrand or the Italian's Crespi and Brenna. So it was time to catch up and learn some new names. Of these the most impressive has to be the Spaniard Ramon Julian Puigblanque, being somewhat short in stature he demonstrated aptly that height is no excuse. Mrazek usually a strong contender fluffed the tricky traverse along the lip of the roof like a munchkin. Even Chabot looked a little unsure through the roof, but he seems to have the ability just to hang on for ever, he reached the same point as Ramon Julian before he to fell. Chabot took his 4th consecutive victory at Lecco on account of reaching a higher point in the semi-final.

So that was it, perhaps it lacked the drama of the bouldering competition, but nonetheless entertaining and inspirational. We found a shady spot in a bar before the Milan posy arrived and we went for pizza. The lake shore was packed with people waiting for the fireworks. They started as our pizzas arrived, and were still going when we had finished! A fantastic display, a perfect way to end the weekend.

At the end of the competition it was announced that after 4 years of hosting a stage of the world cup at Lecco this years could be the last. Lecco is the only stage on the circuit that holds the 3 disciplines. This combined with the fireworks display and Grignetta d'oro makes it like the annual ice climbing festival in L'argentiere la Besse a most excellent week of climbing events. It would be a real shame if it was not to return, and given the chance to blossom into a key event in the climbing calendar.